Some years ago I worked for a famous naval supplies in Seattle, Washington on the storage engine and electric counter tops. It 'was while working there that I have some very scary events experienced with power cord and all the banks were one hundred percent preventable.
One of the biggest crimes I have witnessed was at intervals of every few weeks, someone looking for a replacement cord 50 amp shore power. This has always raised red flags at the bar.Inevitably, we would find that the customer had taken a "very good" shore 50 amp power cord dustbin. convinced that the burned / burnt / melted the end of everything that was wrong, they were just looking to replace the end. People, was probably in the bin for a reason. We have stated many times, customers and more than one occasion has shown that often the insulation on the wire would become brittle from the heat and return to dust for several meters to crumblethe cable. This would probably cause a short circuit after a few strings and no one would want to know a fire.I pay $ 500 + dollars for a power cord into the dock, but sometimes it is not only necessary but highly safety and fire prevention Navy recommended.
We also want to see how people who end their 30 power amplifier to the ground to be replaced, because the ends become charred / Melty / or something similar. This is usually done during the winter months (sometimes even with cable 50 amperes). The culprit?Typically uses a combination of electric heater on the boat. Think about it. If you are on a 30-amp service and you have two 1200 watt electric heaters. 1200W altitude of 110 volts and you get very close to eleven amplifier, which is multiplied by 2 (remember we have two resistors) and this means that we expected a draw of about 22 amperes, the dock is actually 110 volts. Sometimes they are not, which means to draw even more power. So, with the load of 22 amps, it leaves us in an ideal 8 ampsConditions, ie no corrosion in the connection of shore power or lose the grip. Now factor in the use of a microwave oven at 1200 watts and you can see that we are on the limits of earthly power and we have not even considered in the light-water or hot water (under the assumption of a water power) or even cook a range or an oven (including electricity).
In addition to the above questions would have many completely neglecting their side of the boat to the ground power connector, which becomeburned / burnt / or Melty. Also not good.
The funds for this? There are several.
- Always use new, UL-shore marine shore power cord plug with the right end.
- Do not use electric heaters in the boat. Consider a diesel boat heater heating other specifications.
- Check the power cord to the ground ends quarter. Make sure that the links that cuddles and show no signs of corrosion or heat discolored. Also be checked for unusual creases or coat torn. IfDoubt, replace it.
- Check the connections and docks and Boatside.
- Put a little 'lubricant, such as LPS or 1 grease on the boots and the thorns, because both can help the salty air and assist in the fight against corrosion.
- Think about your electrical needs. Remember, watts / volts = amps
- In case of doubt in your mind, a qualified ABYC (American Boat and Yacht Council) certified marine electrician.
What do you do when youhave a dock or sell Boatside connection as a connection time? For a shore power, immediately contact the Navy. A good manager marine appreciate this. If there's a connection Boatside ABYC certified marine, contact a qualified electrician. If you use the ABYC code, you can do it, but if you have even the slightest doubt, go with the Pro If you face alone. Make sure that the correct assembly (Hubbell and Marinco them) to obtain andMake sure that the wiring from the outlet to the heat distribution panel and check the insulation may have caused embrittlment well. Replace the cable may be cheap insurance.
I hope this helps a little out there. And happy cruising!
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